Isla de La Plata - Ecuadorian Silver Treasure
Isla de la Plata is a tiny, uninhabited island located on the Pacific Ocean, off the coast of Manabi in Ecuador. It is now under the protection of the Machalilla National Park. The name - meaning 'Island of silver' - captures the imagination. Could the national park hide mines of valuable ores? Maybe chests full of silver coins have been discovered on its land? However, our speculations about the name couldn't be more wrong!
Table of Contents:
1. The Silver Treasure of Isla de la Plata2. Isla de la Plata - "The Poor Man's Galapagos"3. How to get to Isla de la Plata4. Isla de la Plata Tour5. Amazing Species of the Island6. Marine Fauna7. Diving in the waters of Machalilla National Park 8. Isla de la Plata Whale Watching9. El Niño and its Impact on the Silver Island 10. Comments
The Silver Treasure of Isla de la Plata
The theories behind the origin of the Isla de la Plata name hold a surprising twist! The most known story is about early fishermen who set sail around the island and got captivated by the silvery sheen of its rocky hills. But upon closer inspection, their excitement turned to disappointment as they realized that the shine was, in fact… The copious guano deposited by countless birds! Not quite the silver treasure they had envisioned!
Another intriguing legend explaining the origin of the islet's name revolves around the legendary sailor, sir Francis Drake. Regarded as a heroic explorer, admiral of the English fleet, he was perceived as a cruel pirate and plunderer by the Spaniards. Commanding the sailing ship "Golden Hind," he targeted the unarmed vessels and ports on the east coast of South America. The wealth of treasures he amassed was too heavy for his ship, so according to the tale, Drake hid some of his valuable loot on a deserted land - the Island of Silver. Even today, the rocky cliffs spark intrigue, leaving us to wonder if a silver fortune is still waiting to be discovered, adding a touch of mystery and allure to the history of Isla de la Plata.
While Isla de la Plata may not boast precious metals, the “silver lining” lies in the treasure far more valuable in my opinion: its unique nature and extraordinary species of animals.
Isla de la Plata - "The Poor Man's Galapagos"
The most popular and most expensive tourist destination when touring Ecuador are undoubtedly the Galapagos Islands. To enjoy a few days in this unique archipelago, which became a source of inspiration for Darwin's theory of evolution, you have to be ready to spend at least several thousand dollars.
Isla de la Plata remains relatively undiscovered, yet it boasts a wealth of natural wonders akin to the Galapagos Islands but at a much more affordable cost. Easily accessible from the coast, it offers a budget-friendly alternative to the famous Galapagos experience, earning it the humorous nickname ‘La Galápagos de los pobres’ - ‘Galapagos for the poor' in a light-hearted manner. Despite the playful moniker, Isla de la Plata stands as a captivating destination of Ecuador tours.
Although seeing the renowned archipelago and its giant tortoises is high on our travel dream list, this time we opted for the budget version - and it proved to be no less exciting!
We visited the Plata Island twice - the first time to see the amazing species of plants and animals on the island and the second time to discover the underwater world around it... And unexpectedly experience one of the most unforgettable adventures of our trip!
How to get to Isla de la Plata
The easiest way to get to Isla de La Plata is from Puerto Lopez, a charming fishing town about 3 hours away from the main city of the region - Guayaquil. On the main street of Puerto Lopez, there are many tourist agencies offering trips to the islands of Machalilla National Park. The cost of a one-day tour to Isla de la Plata is about 40 USD per person, which seems to be a very reasonable price for a day full of attractions.
Alternatively, a trip to Isla de la Plata can be organized from the town of Montañita, located south of Puerto Lopez. Montañita is a much more touristic place (known mainly for its intense nightlife), so the prices of trips can be slightly higher.
When choosing a travel agency, make sure that it has positive reviews and is actively involved in protecting the flora and fauna of the national park. Although tourism inevitably affects the environment, supporting ethical tour operators who ensure that the island remains intact gives the unique nature of the place a chance to survive.
We booked both our trips from Puerto Lopez: we explored the island with a guide from Aventuras La Plata (www.aventuraslaplata.com) and the reefs of the national park with Mares Ecuador (www.maresecuador.com). We can sincerely recommend both companies!
Isla de la Plata Tour
The trip starts at 9 am, so after a quick breakfast we were ready to set off from the port! Accessing Isla de la Plata takes about two hours by small speedboat. Depending on the weather conditions, it can get quite wavy! If you are prone to motion sickness or have experienced seasickness, it's advisable to come prepared with appropriate medications. There were a few people on our motorboat who had to move to the back deck for a quicker access overboard… However, the view of Isla de la Plata on the horizon makes up for the potential hardships of the sea trip!
The national park provides basic amenities for tourists, but the island lacks further infrastructure, allowing for complete immersion in the wild nature. Trekking, animal observations, swimming and snorkeling on the coral reef and watching whales emerging from the ocean - a day on Isla de la Plata is filled with unforgettable impressions! We couldn't wait!
Amazing Species of the Island
Blue-footed boobies on Isla de la Plata
The island is inhabited by over 30 species of birds - from a distance you can see dozens of them circling above the island and diving into the ocean, catching fish. Of all the bird species, the most famous and easily recognizable is... The Blue-footed booby! Where did the name come from? The answer is more than obvious :)
With their comical appearance, featuring a small head, slender body, and unmistakably blue feet, these seabirds are a ubiquitous sight across the island. Where does the distinctive coloration come from? You can find the answer in our next article dedicated to these bizarre creatures - coming soon!
Boobies take rest in many places on the island, so it's quite easy to spot them from the trail. Although most individuals seem to be very relaxed and do not react to groups of tourists, it is worth keeping your distance - disturbing the peace can end up with an unpleasant peck attack!
Boobies are not very faithful - they form new pairs every year. Maybe for us humans, a night of dancing is enough to show interest in a potential partner, but boobies show a whole new level of commitment - to win the attention of a female, the boobie dances for almost twenty days in a row! What's more, he also has to prove his mastery in nest-building, so the dance routine includes elements of tossing twigs and flipping straws of grass. An astonishing, but apparently very effective method of seduction!
Another species of boobies common on the island are the Nazca boobies. Despite very different characteristics, they are closely related to the Blue-footed boobie. During our trip, they seemed louder and more interactive than their blue-legged cousins!
All boobies spend a large part of the day perched on the cliffs, making sure that the rocks of the island stay "silver"!
Galapagos albatross
During our tour around the island, we were taken aback to discover that a significant portion of the trail on the eastern side was closed off. The reason became apparent when we learned that it was the home of the very last couple of the Galapagos Albatrosses that remained on Isla de la Plata. The park rangers ensure that the couple is undisturbed during their critical mating and nesting season. Hopefully, with dedicated conservation measures in place, next year we will see the increase in their numbers and the island population of this majestic bird will be restored.
Reptiles
Exploring Isla de la Plata, we discovered that the reptiles there are indeed much smaller in comparison to the famous Galapagos Tortoise. Noticing them requires a keen eye and a bit of patience, as they may hide among the bushes and foliage. We managed to see a few lizards basking on the hot stone on the path, but in most cases our sight was a second too late: we could only hear the rustling leaves as the reptile took cover in the bush.
The most peculiar creature we spotted was this tiny animal peeping through the branches. Can you see it too? Let us know in the comments!
Ghost crabs
The moment you step onto the sandy shore of Isla de La Plata, you'll be greeted by a fascinating sight - hundreds of tiny red crabs scurrying about. Their name “Ghost crab” is very apt - taking a picture of these sprinting crustaceans, running out of their burrows, and hiding back in the sand in the blink of an eye - bordered on a miracle and required setting the camera to "sport" mode. Despite numerous attempts, I managed to get only two (almost) decent shots!
Rats
Years before Isla de la Plata was turned into a national park, a courageous Ecuadorian family decided to settle on the island and brought farm animals to freely graze on the terrain. A particularly long period of drought forced them to transport fodder from the mainland, inadvertently introducing rats to the island! After several difficult seasons, the family decided to leave the island, but the livestock - and rats - remained.
Rehabilitating the island's natural environment required removing the farm animals. While eliminating goats and horses was a relatively straight-forward task, the rat colony persisted. Rats pose serious problems to the local wildlife, hunting for eggs and young, vulnerable hatchlings. The park rangers on Isla de La Plata are engaged in an ongoing battle against the rat infestation - when walking the island trails you will see pieces of gray plastic pipes - part of the rat elimination process, necessary to restore the ecological balance.
Distinctive plants
On Isla de La Plata you can find evergreen trees, which are deeply rooted and retain their lush greenery throughout all seasons. The majority of the island, however, consists of a bush that remains dry for most of the year. It is during the rainy season that this arid landscape transforms, showcasing a burst of new green leaves, infusing the island with vibrant life and color. Although we visited the island at the beginning of the dry season, the island was surprisingly green because of El Niño - more about the catastrophic climate effects of this warm current in the last chapter.
The "glue berry bush" is a fascinating plant species found on the island, displaying its characteristic yellow flowers and white fruit along the hill slopes. The fruit's inner contents hold a surprising quality - a transparent sticky goo. Ecuadorian children have long utilized this natural adhesive as paper glue.
Our guide said the berries are edible and have a distinctive sweet taste. Of course, being way too overcurious (and never learning from mistakes) I thought it's worth a try - I opened the fruit and tasted its mucus juice. Only after my taste test - yes, it indeed was sweet! - I heard the guide finish his sentence: the berries are used in traditional medicine as a natural laxative…
You see, the island's plant life is full of intriguing surprises, offering both practical uses and unexpected lessons for the curious explorer…
Marine Fauna
Galapagos sea lion
The rocky shores of Isla de La Plata are home to sea lion colonies. You can observe them from the boat in their natural habitat. These laid-back animals can be spotted lounging on the bottom of the cliffs, seemingly unperturbed by the crashing waves around them. It was amazing to witness the carefree demeanor of this endangered species amid the rugged coastal landscape.
Green sea turtles
Exploring the waters around Isla de la Plata offers the opportunity to encounter sea turtles both from the boat near the island's shores and during snorkeling and diving adventures on the surrounding coral reefs.
Diving in the waters of Machalilla National Park
For diving enthusiasts, the island presents numerous awe-inspiring dive spots to explore.The underwater world around Isla de la Plata is a mesmerizing spectacle of biodiversity that won’t fail to amaze even seasoned divers. We were enchanted by the vibrant coral reef teeming with hundreds of unique fish species. Among the most memorable sights were green sea turtles gracefully resting among the reef, venomous stonefish disguised as algae-covered rocks, and curious moray eels peering at us from their stone crevices. We swam after shoals of trumpetfish resembling long thin tubes, tried to spot stingrays camouflaging at the bottom, and lure out octopuses hidden among the rocks. In a comical encounter, a butterfly fish playfully nibbled at Aaron's red hair, seemingly captivated by its color and refusing to let him go for quite some time!
Waters of the national park give chance to spot giant manta rays or legendary whale sharks! We weren’t lucky this time - but we had a different, very unique and moving experience... More about it in the next paragraph!
Isla de la Plata Whale Watching
Whale watching in Ecuador is possible between June and October. The Humpback whales travel thousands of kilometers from Antarctica to the warm waters of Ecuador, to mate, give birth and nurse their young. Humpbacks are the world's fifth largest animal - adults can reach 15 meters in length and weigh up to 30 tons! Embarking on a boat trip to Isla de la Plata offers an extraordinary opportunity to witness these incredible giants - sometimes really close!
During our adventures on the waters of Machalilla National Park, we were fortunate to spot dozens of humpbacks - often in pairs, sometimes accompanied by their playful offspring. Around Isla de la Plata whale watching was without comparison the most spectacular.
The sight of humpbacks breaching the ocean's surface or a baby whale joyfully frolicking around its mother was a breathtaking site that left us with a deep appreciation for the beauty and resilience of those once almost extinct marine mammals. Despite the ongoing hazards that exist in the sea, the humpback population has now achieved stability, giving hope that the conservation program is effective and whale watching in Ecuador will be a cherished activity for generations to come.
Spotting a humpback whale while diving around Isla de la Plata is a rare treat, but it may happen! When we were preparing the equipment for our diving adventure, we saw a few whales not far from our boat. The prospect of encountering these gentle giants underwater filled me with excitement, but Aaron seemed less than convinced about the idea of an eye-to-eye meeting with a 30-ton animal. The majesty and size of Humpback whales can be both awe-inspiring and intimidating…
Although we haven’t seen any marine mammals below the surface (Aaron breathed a sigh of relief), something equally amazing happened! At a depth of about 20 meters, our dive instructor suddenly froze motionless and with a hand gesture (the only way of underwater communication!) pointed at her ears.
In the depths of the ocean, an unusual silence prevails. All you can hear is your own breathing: the hum of air being inhaled from the bottle and the bubbly exhalation. Suddenly, from the depths of the blue, a new sound pierced the muted serenity of the realm - the song of the whale. We stared at the dark emptiness of the open ocean. The vibrations of the humpbacks' powerful voice can travel through kilometers of sea, so we couldn’t spot the animal, but it kept singing for minutes to come. Hearing the whale song was a transcendent moment that left us in awe. Immersed in the peace and tranquility of the underwater world, the beautiful sounds gave us a glimpse into the wonders of life below the waves and a sense of deep connection to nature. It was a humbling and magical experience, creating a memory that will remain with us for a lifetime.
El Niño and its Impact on the Silver Island
El Niño is a natural climate phenomenon of increased sea surface temperatures around the equator, occurring every 2 to 7 years. As of July 2023, the waters around Isla de La Plata and the islands itself are heavily suffering from the impacts of El Niño.
The warming of the ocean surface forces many fish species to retreat to deeper and cooler waters. The temperature disruptions affected the migration of Giant Manta Rays, which haven’t yet shown up this season.
For the birds that rely on a fish diet, the scarcity of their usual food source near the surface has resulted in days of starvation and disruption to their natural cycles. This includes the boobies, whose breeding season is typically in full swing at this time of the year. Unfortunately, we haven't observed a single nest with eggs on the island - it is a major concern among the rangers of the national park.
Although scientists acknowledge that El Niño has been a recurring phenomenon for centuries, its current effects are worrying. The potential lack of food may force the birds to abandon the island. Isla de la Plata is facing a challenging period, with its unique wildlife struggling to cope with the consequences of this powerful climate disruption.
Will the precious treasure of The Island of Silver disappear forever?
Comments